Well folks, it looks like this is as close as we are going to get to New York City:
This photo was not, in fact, taken in New York City. Martin snapped it in Chloride, New Mexico, the most populated "ghost town" we have ever seen. Populated with live people, that is. But let me back up.
When I last posted, we had landed in Truth or Consequences, New Mexico, and I was happily blogging as Karolina slept and Martin and Peter ran errands. One totaled rental car later (everyone is just fine, Martin was not at fault), Martin was having serious second thoughts about flying with a very distracting 4-year-old. The flights have been, well, *trying* to say the least. Peter is sleep-deprived and not used to being cooped up for several hours, and the end result has been just short of disastrous. Martin put his foot down. He would fly no farther East with this child. Well, not as far East as, say, Virginia. He was willing to compromise and make a few short hops to Minnesota, and not give up on the trip entirely. But he needed a break.
And so, here we are, three days later, still in New Mexico. We spent Day 4 driving around ToC, looking for a place to cool off. We tried Elephant Butte State Park, but it was like going to the beach on the moon, only with the sun really REALLY close. We needed trees to act as a buffer in the 103 degree heat, and so we headed to Caballo State Park, or something like that. Only a little nicer than Elephant Butte, but Karolina and I found one tree to park under while Martin and Peter went for a swim. At least I got my sopapilla fix (a form of fried bread only rarely found outside of New Mexico) for dinner. I could eat this kind of food for weeks on end, especially since I have been cruelly deprived of decent Mexican food ever since we moved to Nevada City.
Day 5 I spent mostly sulking and making tearful phone calls cancelling our East Coast plans. We changed rooms at the hotel (Why is it that packing up, even for a move as short as three doors down, STILL takes several hours???), and then headed out to find SOMETHING to do in the heat. We picnicked along the bank of the Rio Grande, which sounds nice until I tell you that I could neither see nor feel the coolness of the river from our picnic blanket. Peter sustained an injury walking along a searing hot metal half pipe (OUCH) and so we got in the car and drove an hour and fifteen minutes to Chloride while Peter slept it off.
Chloride has a museum (closed fifteen minutes before we arrived).
Chloride has a cool old tractor. (Do I look like the chick from the famous Dorothea Lange photo?)
Chloride has funny signs.
And Chloride has cute babies! Oops, that one is mine.
Day 6 I was still sulking a little bit, and may not have been paying attention when Martin declared our new destination (Pueblo, Colorado). After an hour and a half of BUMPY flying, I inquired (perhaps a little shrilly) HOW MUCH LONGER and learned that we were, in fact, 20 minutes from Taos, New Mexico, which just happens to be the only location one can still find one of my favorite brands of ice cream: Taos Cow. My mood improved SIGNIFICANTLY when I learned that we could land there.
A retired United pilot gave us a ride into town, and we treated him to ice cream as a way of saying thanks. Taos Cow's raspberry dark chocolate did not disappoint. I got my ice cream, Peter got a replacement scoop of cinnamon at no charge when the first serving met with an unfortunate fate on the floor, and Martin and Grant got to talk airplanes for half an hour or so. Everyone was happy.
Karolina is always happy. Here she is in a new fashion color head band (Martin bought the multi-color pack to keep her ear protection in place).
And so, Day 6. A little flying, a little ice cream, a little swimming in the Best Western's pool, and a real gourmet dinner to finish the day off. Definitely mood elevating. In fact, we liked it so much that we decided to stay another day. Which brings us to:
Day 7: Taos, New Mexico. Martin had some work to do today (like for his JOB), and so Peter and I set out on an adventure while Karolina settled down for nap #1. After a disappointing exchange with the extraordinarily UN-helpful front desk:
Me: So, what are our options for transportation if we don't have a car? I noticed a bus stop outside the hotel...
Clueless Front Desk Chick With Stuck-together False Eyelashes: We have a shuttle.
Me: And where does the shuttle go?
CFDC: It goes within 5 miles of the hotel.
Me: And what is there to do within 5 miles of the hotel?
CFDC: Ummmm. Here is a map.
Me: Ok, where are we on the map?
CFDC: Ummmmm. I guess the map doesn't really have a lot of stuff.
Me: Does the shuttle go to the Pueblo?
CFDC: Oh, yes. The Pueblo is only a mile from here.
Me: Does the shuttle go to the Park?
CFDC: Yes.
Me: Ok, never mind. We'll figure it out (SINCE I SEEM TO KNOW MORE THAN YOU DO ABOUT TAOS).
We had fun anyway. We did laundry, we smelled the enormous purple-flowered mint plant. (There are beautiful flowers planted all the way up and down the main drag in Taos, in front of each shuttered art gallery -- the economic downturn has hit Taos hard.). We walked the labyrinth at the Presbyterian church, and then we got a text from dad that Karolina was AWAKE and HUNGRY.
Back at the hotel, work plans thwarted, we decided to visit the Pueblo together. The Pueblo is the local UNESCO heritage site -- home of the Taos Pueblo Native Americans, who have been living there continually since 1300 A.D. or so.
We took the free guided tour (our sweet young guide's first tour!), and it was fascinating. We learned why the front doors on some of the buildings were on the second story (The women of the tribe would pull up the ladders upon first sighting Apache invaders).
We learned how the natives integrated their own religion into Catholicism after the Spaniards backed off. The Virgin Mary replaced Jesus as the central figure of worship -- she doubles as Mother Earth. The adobe Catholic church is the white building in the background of this photo.
And here is the Catholic cemetery:
Gorgeous Clouds -- hopefully a harbinger for another fantastic lightning show like the one we got last night. And hopefully that will be over by departure time tomorrow morning -- we are aiming for Minnesota again, as early as we can possibly get up and at 'em.
This is how one artistically inclined citizen keeps the dogs out of his adobe bread oven:
And this is how (back at the hotel) I am finding the time to write this blog while Karolina naps and Martin finally gets his work done (Thank you, Steve Jobs!):
And so, while we are woefully disappointed that we won't get to see our East Coast friends and family, we are soldiering on with the family vacation, winging it, taking things day by day. Anyone (Mom, Jana) in possession of the itinerary I planned can just toss that aside. I will try and keep the blog updated or you can always call my cell phone to find out where we are.